What inspired the creation of IOKA Skin+Science, and what problem in the skincare industry were you determined to solve?

IOKA Skin+Science was inspired by my own struggle with severe rosacea. After moving to the U.S. in the 1980s, my skin worsened dramatically when I began using conventional commercial skincare. It took years to understand that my skin was reacting not to actives, but to common emulsifiers used in most formulas.

As a scientist, I decided to investigate and formulate a solution for myself. In 1998, I created my first emulsifier-free moisturizer, and within two weeks my skin visibly transformed—most of the redness disappeared, hydration improved, and my skin finally felt calm and balanced. Friends quickly began asking for it, and what started as a personal solution became a long-term passion.

IOKA was created to address a problem I experienced firsthand: skincare that promises results but quietly disrupts the skin barrier. My goal has always been to formulate products that respect skin biology and support long-term skin health rather than quick, surface-level fixes.

How does your background in science influence the way you approach skin health and product formulation? Why do you formulate without chemical emulsifiers?

My scientific background guides every aspect of formulation—from ingredient selection to delivery architecture. I approach skin as a complex biological system, not a surface to be manipulated, which means understanding mechanisms, tolerances, and interactions rather than relying on trends or marketing claims.

I strongly believe in an emulsifier-free approach because I experienced firsthand how common chemical emulsifiers can disrupt the skin barrier. In compromised skin, repeated exposure to these unnecessary components can strip moisture and weaken barrier function over time. To achieve stability without harming the skin, I use highly purified natural phospholipids derived from sunflower or soy. They effectively bind oil and water while also supporting barrier repair, hydration, and skin resilience.

Every ingredient I use is carefully evaluated for efficacy, bioavailability, and compatibility with the skin barrier. Science teaches you to ask not only if something works, but how it works—and at what cost to the skin when it’s overused or misused.

Why is skin barrier health such a foundational focus in the IOKA Skin+Science philosophy? How do IOKA products support the barrier?

Because everything starts with the skin barrier. When it is compromised, no active—no matter how powerful—can function optimally. In my work, I view the skin barrier as a coordinated system made up of four interconnected layers: physical, chemical, microbial, and immunological. Damage to any one of them disrupts the entire system.

Modern skincare often weakens these barriers through over-exfoliation, harsh surfactants, chemical emulsifiers, sun exposure, and barrier-disruptive preservatives, leading to increased transepidermal water loss and chronic inflammation. IOKA formulations are designed to address all four barriers methodically and respectfully.

We support the physical barrier with emulsifier-free formulations, phospholipids that mimic human cell membranes, and liposomal delivery systems that preserve lipid organization. The chemical barrier is protected through pH-respectful formulations, cellular energy support such as NAD⁺ boosters, and antioxidants that safeguard biochemical processes. For the microbial barrier, I use probiotic peptides and minimalist formulas that support balance rather than elimination. And the immunological barrier is supported with repair-signaling peptides, copper peptides, and broad-spectrum antioxidants to calm inflammation and promote regeneration.

Healthy skin is not about aggression—it’s about balance. Calm skin repairs faster, responds better to treatment, and ages more slowly. That belief is at the core of every IOKA formulation.

What does “skin science” truly mean to you beyond industry buzzwords and trends?

To me, skin science means respect—for biology, for evidence, and for long-term outcomes. It’s not about chasing the newest ingredient or making exaggerated claims. It’s about spending the time to ensure that carefully chosen ingredients truly work—and work together—to support both immediate skin comfort and long-term health and radiance.

True skin science is formulation integrity: honest ingredient synergy, intelligent delivery systems such as liposomes and oleosomes, and a deep understanding of how skin adapts over time. It also means knowing when not to push the skin. In my experience, restraint, balance, and consistency are often far more powerful than intensity.

How do IOKA Skin+Science formulations support long-term skin health rather than quick, surface-level results?

IOKA formulations are designed to support the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, not override them. We focus on barrier lipids, cellular hydration, antioxidants, and intelligent delivery systems that allow actives to work gently and effectively over time. As a mitochondrial biologist, I understand the importance of NAD⁺—a coenzyme critical for cellular function, including stem cell activation in the skin. By incorporating NAD⁺ boosters like NMN and Niacinamide, we support the skin’s regenerative processes, helping it repair, strengthen, and age more gracefully. Combined with our barrier-focused approach, this ensures the skin’s health and resilience for the long term, rather than delivering short-lived, superficial results.

What do you hope people understand or feel after being introduced to IOKA Skin+Science for the first time?

I hope they feel relief—like they’ve finally found skincare they can trust. I want people to understand that healthy skin doesn’t need to be forced, punished, or constantly “corrected.” It thrives when it’s supported, not stressed. My goal is for IOKA to empower both professionals and consumers to think differently about skin health: more thoughtfully, more patiently, and more sustainably—so everyone can look and feel their best at any age.

What is the “Hydration Pump” concept?

The “Hydration Pump” is a method I developed for both professionals and consumers to help restore and heal the skin barrier quickly. It involves layering multiple hydrating and anti-aging products that contain liposomes—and must be emulsifier-free!—starting with the thinnest textures and building to the thicker ones. This layering “pumps” moisture deep into the skin barrier, enhancing hydration, barrier repair, and overall skin vitality.

I personally used this method to revive my skin after chemotherapy and radiation a few years ago, and it made a dramatic difference. I highly recommend trying it—it’s a simple yet powerful way to support long-term skin health and radiance. Check it out on my website:https://iokaskinscience.com/pages/education

What are the main foundational principles of IOKA Skin+Science?

IOKA Skin+Science formulations are aligned with the principles of corneotherapy—a barrier-focused approach to skin health that prioritizes restoration of the stratum corneum and long-term skin function over aggressive stimulation
(learn more: https://corneotherapy.org/corneotherapy/what-is-corneotherapy).

Rather than targeting isolated symptoms, IOKA supports the skin as an integrated system through:

• Emulsifier-free formulations

• Biomimetic phospholipids that mirror skin lipids

• Liposomal delivery systems that respect barrier structure

• Calming, reparative ingredients that support balance and homeostasis

IOKA formulations are built on a dermal membrane–mimetic lipid structure, designed to closely resemble the skin’s natural lipid bilayers. Using phospholipids derived from soy or sunflower instead of conventional emulsifiers, this membrane-like structure supports barrier integrity, hydration retention, and cellular communication—allowing actives to integrate naturally without disrupting the skin or causing dependency.