Skip to main content
Enjoy 20% off on Moisture ER Moisturizer from April 1-8⁣⁣⁣⁣⁣ .Use code MOISTURE20 at checkout⁣⁣⁣⁣⁣

Olga's interview for Inspired Publication

Olga's interview for Inspired Publication

1. You have a deep background in science and research. What originally drew you into formulating skincare, and when did you realize you wanted to turn that passion into a brand?

My path into skincare began in a very personal way. I spent many years working in research labs, but at the same time I was struggling with a severe case of rosacea. Nothing I tried helped—in fact, many of the products I bought at department stores made my skin worse.

At some point, I noticed a pattern: my rosacea would flare whenever I used products containing certain common emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are chemicals used to mix oil and water, and they are found in almost every skincare product because they are inexpensive, effective, and largely unregulated. While they create stable formulations, they may not be suitable for everyone—especially for people with a compromised skin barrier, like mine.

Using my scientific background, I created my first emulsifier-free moisturizer, replacing traditional emulsifiers with phospholipids. The results were dramatic: within less than two weeks, about 90% of my redness was gone. Friends and family were amazed and started asking for my “stuff.” Formulating skincare had always been a serious hobby, but during the pandemic I decided to turn that passion into a small business with a clear mission: to help others with damaged or sensitive skin barriers who weren’t being served by conventional products.

That’s how IOKA Skin+Science was born—rooted in science, driven by personal experience, and focused on barrier-respecting skincare.

2. IOKA is positioned around repairing the skin barrier — a term that’s trending but often misunderstood. From a scientific perspective, how would you explain what the barrier actually is and why it’s so central to healthy skin?

The skin barrier is not a vague concept or a marketing term—it’s a highly organized biological structure, primarily the stratum corneum, which functions as our first line of defense.

Think of it as a “brick and mortar” system: the corneocytes (dead skin cells) are the bricks, and the intercellular lipids—ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids—are the mortar. When intact, this barrier retains moisture, defends against pathogens, and maintains a balanced immune response.

When the barrier is compromised, water escapes, irritants penetrate more easily, and inflammation occurs—leading to redness, breakouts, sensitivity, or conditions like rosacea and eczema. Many skincare routines focus on masking symptoms rather than addressing the underlying barrier dysfunction, which is why problems often persist.

At IOKA, we take a barrier-first, corneotherapy-based approach. Instead of forcing the skin to change, we support its natural structure with biomimetic ingredients (substances that mimic the skin's natural molecules).  When the barrier is healthy, the skin can self-regulate, calm inflammation, and function as it was designed to do.

3. The brand takes a very strong stance against emulsifiers, especially for sensitive and barrier-compromised skin. When did you first make the connection between emulsifiers and conditions like rosacea, acne, or dryness, and what made you decide to eliminate them entirely from your formulations?

My understanding of emulsifiers came from lived experience, followed by scientific reasoning. While managing my rosacea, I noticed my flare-ups were consistent: every time I used certain creams, my skin would become red, inflamed, and reactive.

Comparing ingredient lists, I realized the products causing the strongest reactions relied on synthetic emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are designed to interact with lipids—not just in the jar, but potentially with the skin’s lipid matrix as well. In compromised skin, they can further disrupt these lipids, increasing water loss and allowing irritants to penetrate.

When I eliminated emulsifiers from my routine and replaced them with phospholipid-based systems, my skin improved dramatically. This confirmed that emulsifiers could interfere with true barrier repair. At IOKA, we avoid them not because they’re inherently “bad,” but because they are often incompatible with sensitive or inflamed skin. Removing them allows the barrier to recover, reorganize, and function naturally.

4. Instead of emulsifiers, you use liposomal delivery systems and phospholipids — which is more common in biotech than beauty. Can you walk us through how liposomes work and why they’re so effective for barrier repair and active delivery?

Liposomes are microscopic spheres made from phospholipids—the same molecules that form our cell membranes. When in contact with water, they self-assemble into bilayer structures that can carry both water- and oil-soluble ingredients.

What makes them powerful is biomimicry. Their structure is similar to the skin’s own cell membranes, so they integrate gently rather than forcing penetration. This supports the barrier directly by replenishing and reorganizing its lipids, reducing water loss, calming inflammation, and helping the skin self-regulate.

Liposomes also protect sensitive active ingredients (like NAD+ boosters and peptides) and release them in a controlled, targeted way, improving efficacy while minimizing irritation. At IOKA, we borrow this strategy from biotech to deliver skincare that supports the skin’s biology while enhancing results—calm, hydrated, and resilient skin without compromise.

5. Your formulations include NAD⁺ boosters like NMN and niacinamide, which are often discussed in longevity research. What role do NAD-related ingredients play in skin aging, and how did they become a core part of IOKA’s technology?

NAD⁺ is a critical molecule in cellular metabolism, DNA repair, and resilience. Its levels decline with age, which affects skin renewal, barrier lipid synthesis, and the ability to respond to stressors like UV exposure or inflammation.

From my mitochondrial research background, the relevance of NAD⁺ to skin health was clear: skin requires energy to maintain itself, and low NAD⁺ compromises that process. Niacinamide supports NAD⁺ synthesis while also strengthening the barrier, improving hydration, and reducing inflammation. NMN, a direct NAD⁺ precursor, further supports cellular energy pathways and repair mechanisms.

Incorporating NAD⁺ boosters into liposomal, barrier-friendly systems ensures that these actives are delivered effectively while minimizing irritation. At IOKA, the goal is not chasing anti-aging trends—it’s supporting the fundamental biology of the skin so it can function optimally and naturally look healthier over time.

6. IOKA focuses heavily on multifunctional products that solve multiple issues at once — from inflammation to hydration to anti-aging. Was that a strategic decision from the beginning, and what gaps were you seeing in the marketplace at the time?

Yes, it was intentional. Skin rarely experiences problems in isolation—barrier compromise often leads to inflammation, dehydration, sensitivity, and accelerated aging all at once. Designing products for single concerns often fails to address the root cause.

The market was full of fragmented solutions: multiple single-issue products stacked together, often with aggressive actives or emulsifiers. For sensitive skin, this could worsen irritation rather than help.

IOKA’s multifunctional formulations are designed to calm inflammation, restore hydration, strengthen the barrier, and support healthy aging—all in one coherent system. That said, I am not against layering. I encourage what I call the “Hydration Pump,” which is an intentional layering of phospholipid- and liposome-based hydrating and anti-aging products. Because these systems are barrier-compatible, layering amplifies their benefits without adding irritation.

The gap I saw was the absence of truly barrier-first, biology-driven skincare that treats the skin as an integrated organ. IOKA was created to fill that gap—fewer, smarter products that help the skin return to a healthier, more resilient state.

7. Many people with sensitive or post-treatment skin struggle with ingredient overload. What makes IOKA uniquely suited for those users, and how do you test or validate that your products are tolerated by highly reactive skin?

One of the most consistent pieces of feedback I receive from clients is how quickly IOKA products help calm inflamed, reactive skin. Many users have shared before-and-after photos showing visible reductions in redness and irritation.

At the same time, I’m very careful not to assume “natural” automatically means safe. Any ingredient—natural or synthetic—can be an allergen for someone. That’s why I focus on minimal, barrier-supportive formulations.

Foundational products like the Liposomal Toner Serum and Hydrating Emulsion have very short ingredient lists and are designed to prepare the skin, restore hydration, and support barrier healing before introducing more active or anti-aging formulas. By creating a calm, stable environment first, the skin can tolerate and benefit from advanced bioactives (like peptides and NAD+ boosters)  more effectively.

Validation comes from a combination of scientific rationale, formulation restraint, and continuous real-world feedback from sensitive users. 

8. You’ve worked in research at Harvard Medical School and now lead a clean, vegan, cruelty-free skincare brand. How do you balance rigorous scientific standards with consumer-friendly, natural formulations — especially in a space full of marketing buzzwords?

At my core, I’m a scientist, and that training never leaves you. Working in research taught me to be skeptical, to ask why, and to look for real mechanisms rather than promises. But it also taught me humility—biology is complex, and the skin is incredibly individual.

My journey into skincare wasn’t theoretical; it was personal. I created these products because my own skin was reactive and inflamed, and I needed solutions that actually worked without causing harm. That experience keeps me grounded and intentional about every formulation decision.

I don’t believe “clean,” “natural,” and “scientific” have to compete. The real question is always: does this ingredient support the skin’s biology and is it tolerated by compromised skin? If yes, it stays. If not, it doesn’t matter how trendy it is.

Being vegan and cruelty-free came naturally. Ethics matter, but they never replace science. Every ingredient must contribute meaningfully—hydration, barrier support, calm, or repair—without unnecessary risk.

In a market full of buzzwords, I aim to keep IOKA honest and human. My goal is to translate solid science into skincare people can trust, understand, and use long-term—especially those whose skin has been overlooked or misunderstood. If I can help restore not just the skin barrier, but confidence and comfort as well, I know I’m doing my job right.

At IOKA, our philosophy is simple:

skincare should work with your biology, never against it.

Your Cart

Your cart is currently empty.
Click here to continue shopping.
Thanks for contacting us! We'll get back to you shortly. Thanks for subscribing Thanks! We will notify you when it becomes available! The max number of items have already been added There is only one item left to add to the cart There are only [num_items] items left to add to the cart
Reward program

$10 off

Add your email to claim discount.